It is all hands on deck at this high-style destination. Almost everything on this tight menu passes through the kitchen’s 26-foot-long wood-burning grill that actively roars and smokes. At the end of the line is a single chef at the earthenware comal, who prepares tortillas from heirloom corn that is nixtmalized and ground in-house. Lamb barbacoa packed into griddled, blue masa tortillas and charred maitake mushrooms set in a crema poblana highlight the transformative magic of fire, while dry-aged amberjack aguachile flexes the kitchen’s delicate side. Can’t decide? Servers are happy to build you a tasting menu. All the while, bartenders rise to the occasion with refined, agave-based cocktails in a narrow space that has all the coolness and vibrancy of Mexico City.