A typical meal might begin with the subtle flavour of white fish, followed by red fish, then chu-toro. After gizzard shad for the sourness come richer flavours such as horse mackerel or shrimp, then mackerel marinated in vinegar to cleanse the palate; uni and anago follow. The changes in flavour are carefully calibrated for the aftertaste that lingers in between. Underneath chef Takashi Ono’s strict demeanour toward his apprentices lies a gentle affection.