Chef/owner Josiah Citrin works his magic at this casually upscale grill, where nearly everything is cooked over the fire. Wafts of aromatic charred meat greet guests before they’ve even made it through the door. The menu may be inspired by a backyard barbecue, but the décor is a contemporary mix of concrete walls, beige booths and modern artwork.Steaks come with ramekins of sauce like creamy and smoky choron, in addition to the trio of signature condiments on the table. However, this meat is too flavorful to really need anything. Diners may be here for the steaks, but those in the know also order the cabbage baked in embers, served with lemon-sumac yogurt.The bar area is bustling and loud, thanks to the list of happy hour specials.