The high ceilings and original plasterwork of this restored landmark building contribute to the appeal of the contemporary restaurant within. The well-travelled, Australian-born chef prepares a surprise menu and, while there are multiple global techniques and influences at play, the focus of the dishes remains firmly on the top-notch main ingredients. There are seats at the counter for those wanting to see how the beautifully composed dishes are created, and the wine pairings are a great way to go.