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Dinner here is an intimate, almost solemn, experience. In stark contrast to other sushi counters, Chef/owner Sangtae Park goes about doing things his own way on his corner of West Loop. He rarely wields a knife, as fish are sliced before service, and he deploys non-traditional flourishes like kimchi puree and sesame oil to accentuate quality fish flown in mostly from Japan. The lightly vinegared rice can come off as rather tame, until he serves it in abundance with a grilled miso-marinated black cod that is a benchmark for all other imitators. The entire progression is a largely speedy affair, with Park staying laser-focused on the task at hand, ever diligent and deliberate, and rarely looking up to engage anyone else in the room.