You'll know you're approaching Hometown Barbecue when you smell the wood smoke. Settled into a large warehouse in Red Hook with an industrial feel thanks to concrete floors, an exposed wood ceiling, and wood tables and chairs, it may be a bit of a journey from Manhattan, but it's worth it. Order at the counter, where they slice your meat and serve it on metal sheet-trays. Can't decide? Get the black pepper rubbed brisket, with meat that's tender and juicy. Sides—especially the collard greens mixed with shredded smoked pork and a velvety mac and cheese topped with breadcrumbs to order—are nonnegotiable. But don't forget about dessert. Their banana pudding benefits from a fresh crumble of vanilla wafers and is one dreamy-creamy bite after another.