Frevo is that rare restaurant that flies just under the radar but deserves to be in the spotlight, as Chef Franco Sampogna and his team have serious resumes. It's a tasting menu-only spot that doubles as a gallery; in fact, even the entrance is as artistic as the canvases lining its walls. There are just 18 counter seats and a small table here where the crew plates contemporary French dishes. Begin with bites like Japanese mackerel with shiso leaf and smoked trout roe in a crispy nori shell, or a butternut squash doughnut, served warm and topped with black truffle and parmesan. Madai grilled over binchotan gives the dense, silken fish a gorgeously crisped skin, while thinly shaved Comte cheese, aged 36-months, is paired with honey ice cream for a delightful contrast of savory and sweet.