After Ashiya and Gion, the new frontier for Hiroyuki Koshimo is Karasuma. The shop’s previous name, ‘Roiro’, meant ‘Black as Lacquer’, so Koshimo changed it to ‘Pure White’ to set a different tone. Though his technique is French, Koshimo is not limited by genre, incorporating Japanese elements to broaden the expressive range. Risotto in season, prepared with Yosano rice, is a perennial favourite in this lively and hospitable eatery.